What is that clicking sound?

There are many possible conditions that would cause a clicking sound.

The design of the brake pads assures that they are secured to the brake caliper seat. If they come loose then the pad is allowed to jump up and down when the brake is applied. This action produces a clicking sound when driving slowly or when braking while driving at a slow speed.

Brake calipers are secured to their seat with bolts and guide pins that fit firmly through bushings. This design keeps the caliper suspended properly so that the brake pads make contact with the rotor, and the vehicle stops when they are applied. A loose caliper will flop around and make a clicking sound that emanates from that wheel.

Each brake has a backing plate attached to the back of it. This plate protects the brake from road dirt and prevents damage from projectiles. If the plate is bent inward, it will rub against the rotor or caliper and cause a clicking sound.

A wheel with loose lug nuts will click and rub or grind. A wheel with a crack in it will click. This is more common with steel wheels.

If a rock gets stuck in the tight area between the wheel and brake caliper, it can click or grind.

A loose hubcap will click at slow speeds when the wheel flexes as it turns. (1,000)

 

Is your car ready for summer?

In summer, you have to regularly check and maintain the mechanical components of the car to tackle the rigors of the hot summer conditions: high temperatures, stop-and-go traffic, oversized loads and extended use of the air conditioner - all conspire to put a serious burden on that 4-wheeled friend. Here are some tips to help protect your car from the scorching heat and keep your it on the road this summer.

· have the A/C serviced

· replace coolant

· check the battery

· give tires a once-over

· replace windshield wipers

No one wants his or her air conditioner to crap out on a hot day. Have your mechanic give it a once-over every year. Over time, the A/C can slowly leak refrigerant, causing the compressor to operate for longer periods than usual and put added strain on your engine.

When most of us think of maintenance, we think of changing the oil and rotating the tires. However, keeping fresh antifreeze in the coolant system is just as important. If you can't remember the last time your coolant was replaced, it's probably time for a system flush and fill. Old coolant can develop a slight electric charge that can cause premature corrosion inside your engine and radiator. If left unchecked, that can lead to leaks, and it won't be long before you're stuck on the side of the road with an expensive repair bill.

Changing your car battery every three years will save you a lot of trouble. If the battery in your car is older than that, it's only a matter of time before it leaves you stranded. As a battery ages, it keeps less and less of a charge, causing the alternator to work harder. If your battery is still fairly new, take the time to give it a close look. Check for any corrosion or leaks, and clean up anything you see.

You should have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles, and check the pressure of your tires once a month. As road temperatures increase, so will the pressure in your tires. Take the time to give them a close inspection. Look for any dry rot, large bumps in the sidewalls or uneven wear — these indicate a serious problem. Once things get warm, any small problem can develop into a serious. That can put you, your passengers and those on the road around you in a dangerous situation. (1,800)

oversized – негабаритный

to conspire – сговариваться

strain – напряжение

to expose - раскрывать, разоблачать

to opt for – выбирать

to affect - приносить вред, наносить ущерб

longevity - долговечность

drag – занос

wax – воск

sidewall - бортовая стенка

idling - холостой ход; режим холостого хода

dishwashing detergent - жидкость для мытья посуды

premature wear - преждевременный износ

to trap - задерживать

brake shoe - тормозной башмак; тормозная колодка

lining - накладка (тормозов)

doorjamb - дверной косяк

to deteriorate – ухудшаться

oil drain - слив (выпуск) масла

curve – крутой поворот

turn - поворот

slope – спуск, уклон

once-over – (беглый) осмотр

inspection - (технический) осмотр

checkup - проверка состояния

 

Car myths

Get some car care myths exposed. Learn what's true among all those false ideas you have heard about taking care of your car.

Myth: The car's motor oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.

It is recommended that vehicle owners follow their manufacturer's maintenance intervals while it is still under warranty. However, if a car is no longer under warranty, try using synthetic oil that can extend oil change intervals.

Myth: My car engine needs to warm up before driving.

During winter months, it is a common practice for drivers to warm their vehicles up inside, but a cold engine will warm up faster when it is being driven instead of idling. If you use your car not often, take a few minutes to warm up your car before you drive away. This allows cold, thick oil to warm up, protecting your engine from damage. For cold weather starts, all you need is 30 seconds to ensure proper oil flow and lubrication. In the event of frigid temperatures, driving at a slower speed for a few miles will give your car enough time to warm up.

Myth: Are dishwashing detergents suitable for washing my car?

It is common for people to use dish detergents to wash your car, but do so with some warning. Dish detergents are designed to remove animal or vegetable fat and will equally target the wax on your car. Instead, opt for a product specifically for automotive use.

Myth: All oil filters are the same.

You may think that "an oil filter is an oil filter," but that's not true, because there can be significant differences that affect both filtration efficiency and longevity. The oil filter is the engine's main line of defense against abrasion and premature wear. The more dirt and other contaminants the filter can trap and hold the better. (1,300)

 

Bodywork

A vehicle is more than a collection of parts and systems. The vehicle’s body is subject to the same ravages of time and hard knocks. Repairing a small area is relatively easy. But if the vehicle has suffered extensive body damage, such as major rusting or large holes, dents, creases, or tears in its metal or fiberglass skin, let the professionals do their best.

Otherwise the driver can cope with minor faults by himself or herself. The good news is that many modern vehicles have aluminum or plastic pieces, hoods, trunk lids, fenders, and bodies that aren’t subject to rust. The first line of defense against rust is to wash and wax the vehicle regularly. The paint on the vehicle is there not only for beauty but for protection as well. Paint and clear-coat finishes help retard rust and, on aluminum parts, corrosion and pitting. As long as the paint job is unmarred, metal body surfaces are safe. But a small scratch can spell the beginning of trouble.

There are generally two types of auto dent repair. They are paint restoration repair and paintless dent repair. Paintless dent repair is usually done for minor dents, while paint restoration repair is more commonly centred around repairs where serious damage has been inflicted on the affected parts. Of course, almost everything can be done by the driver’s own hands. But if the damage is too extensive to repair at home, especially if the frame becomes bent by a violent impact only the auto repair shop helps on these occasions. (1,200)

to be subject to – подвергаться

ravages - разрушительное действие

to cope with minor faults – справляться с незначительными неисправностями

elbow-grease - тщательная полировка, тяжелый труд

to entail - вызывать что-л, определять

to inflict – наносить

launch - запуск

predecessor - предшественник

bodywork – кузовные работы

fender - крыло

indentation - повреждение

top-heavy - перевешивающий в своей верхней части; неустойчивый

recycling - переработка отходов

taillight - задний габаритный фонарь

dings - перегиб листа

retouching - ретушировать

collision – столкновение

body panel - панель кузова

unmarred – чистый, неиспорченный (о слое краски)

restoration repair – реконструкция, модернизация

rust – ржавчина

dent – вмятина

crease – царапина

tear – износ, разрыв

brittle – ломкий

light – легкий; светлый

unhardened – незакаленный

stiffness – жесткость

strength – прочность

pitting - точечная коррозия

skin – покрытие, наружный слой

clear coating - прозрачное покрытие

finish –обработка

polishing - полирование

filling - заливка, закраска

 

Audi

With the launch of the A2, Audi AG introduced the first vehicle in the world to have a volume-built all-aluminium body. This model combines high strength with low weight, frankly speaking it the lightest car in the luxury class. The third-generation Audi Space Frame now has fewer components than its predecessors, which makes it easier to build the car in large quantities.

Other car makers are also starting to take aluminium seriously. As engine sizes have increased cars have become more top-heavy. Using aluminium for the hood and front wings helps to get a better weight distribution between front and rear axles. Another advantage of aluminium is that it is cheaper to recycle than steel. This will be an important consideration in the future when the EU introduces tougher recycling regulations.

But there are drawbacks to using aluminium. Replacing steel with aluminium is expensive, an aluminium body costs twice as much as a steel one. Not only are aluminium production processes expensive, they are also difficult to implement. Because aluminium is more brittle and tears more easily than steel, it can only be formed when it is in an unhardened state. Furthermore, the aluminium used for the outer parts of the car, such as the wings and the doors, needs to be thicker than steel because it doesn’t have the same stiffness. The dent-resistance of aluminium is also less than that of steel.

On the plus side, aluminium doesn’t rust like steel, and in car crashes it has a higher energy absorption rate, which increases the car’s active safety. (1,300)

 

Car washing

Some car owners think rainwater is the only enemy to their car, but bird droppings, highway bugs, atmospheric pollution and road salt can also ruin the beauty of the car. Here are some steps to make the car look better.

Step 1: Washing

First, spray water gently to thoroughly wet the surface of the vehicle. This light rinse helps to loosen the dirt on the vehicle. Then divide your car into five sections: the top, the hood, the trunk, the right side and the left side. Start from the top, move on to the hood and the trunk, and then concentrate on the right side and the left side. Washing should always be done very gentle such that the dirt will not scratch the body of the car. Re-wet and then rinse each section, finishing in the same order- top, hood, trunk and sides.

Step 2: Polishing

Polishing should only be done a small section at a time. Add an even coating of polish onto a towel, and then apply to the vehicle surface gently in small, even and circular motions. Start at the top and working your way down to the trunk and hood, finally ending with the sides. The polish should be allowed to sit on the paint surfaces for at least five to ten minutes. After this time, remove the residue with a different cotton towel by pressing firmly on the surfaces. The same procedure may be applied to all other four sections.

Step 3: Waxing

Use a soft and clean terry cloth towel to apply wax to a small section of the car. The application of wax to the car can be done similar to how polishing has been carried out. The only difference is you should wait until the wax has dried to a slight haze. If you’re really striving, repeat the whole process again, adding a second coat of wax to the vehicle. (1,400)