Умение подражать - основной инстинкт, побуждающий моду развиваться — КиберПедия 

Индивидуальные и групповые автопоилки: для животных. Схемы и конструкции...

Общие условия выбора системы дренажа: Система дренажа выбирается в зависимости от характера защищаемого...

Умение подражать - основной инстинкт, побуждающий моду развиваться

2018-01-07 178
Умение подражать - основной инстинкт, побуждающий моду развиваться 0.00 из 5.00 0 оценок
Заказать работу

Подражательное поведение — довольно простая концепция. Человек наблюдает за окружающим миром, а затем копирует то, что видит. Мода распространяется во многом благодаря этому свойству человеческой природы. Без данной особенности мода не получила бы импульса к распространению и не стала бы объектом массового признания. Именно массовость — ключевая характеристика моды. Лихорадочное желание подражать вызывают модные тенденции, о которых мы говорим в главе 1, такие как передача информации через Интернет, глобализация вкусов и увеличение плотности населения за счет урбанизации, стремление быть похожими на известных людей.

Теоретики перформанса полагают, что подражание способствует распространению моды и культурной трансформации в более широких массах. Аналогично исследователи коллективного поведения называют подражание причиной, по которой мода стремится вперед. Исследователи кратковременных циклов, объясняя способность моды распространяться, зачастую ссылаются на инстинктивное подражание. Мода, таким образом, проходит путь от ранней инновационной фазы до признания широкими слоями населения.

 

 

Связующее звено

В заключение напоминаем, что теоретическим концепциям модных изменений близки многие научные дисциплины, каждая из которых обладает стройной внутренней структурой и идеальной логикой, если ее рассматривать отдельно от других. Специалисты, которых интересует природа модных изменений, будь то профессионалы в области моды или работающие в смежных областях, таких как социология, антропология, психология, найдут в этом многообразии ту теорию моды, которая будет полностью согласовываться с их научной позицией. Однако не менее важно помнить, что общие черты этих теоретических концепций принадлежат различным дисциплинам. Некоторые примеры такого объединения разных концепций мы и рассматриваем в заключительной главе, поскольку именно они — то связующее звено, которое объединяет нас, когда мы приступаем к изучению такого захватывающего предмета, как мода.

 

Источники

 

 

Anderson, P. F. The Davy Crockett Craze: A Look at the 1950s Phenomenon and Davy Crockett Collectibles / P. F. Anderson. - Hillside, Illinois: R & G Productions, 1996.

 

Arthur, L. B. Cultural Authentication Refined: The Case of the Hawaiian Holoku / L. B. Arthur // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. — 1997. — (15) 3. — P. 129-139.

 

Atlas, J. Beyond Demographics / J. Atlas // The Atlantic. — 1984. — 254. — P. 49-58.

 

Banner, L. American Beauty / L. Banner. — Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 1983.

 

Barber, N. Women's Dress Fashions as a Function of Reproductive Strategy / N. Barber // Sex Roles. - 1999. - 40 (5/6). - P. 459-471.

 

Barnes, R. Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning / R. Barnes, J. Eicher. — Oxford and Providence: Berg, 1992.

 

Bartky, S. Narcissism, Femininity, and Alienation / S. Bartky // Femininity and Domination: Studies in the Phenomenology of Oppression. — New York and London: Routledge, 1990.

 

Behling, D. French Couturiers and Arts/Illustrators: Fashions from 1900 to 1925. Ph. D. Dissertation / D. Behling. - Columbus: The Ohio State University, 1977.

 

Behling, D. Three and a Half Decades of Fashion Adoption Research: What Have We Learned? / D. Behling // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1992 -10 (2).-P. 4-41.

 

Belleau, B. Cyclical Fashion Movement: Women's Day Dresses: 1860-1980 / B. Belleau // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1987. - 5 (2). - P. 15-20.

 

Belluck, P. Vermont Losing Precious Resource as Young Depart / P. Belluck // New York Times. — 2006. — March 4. — Archives.

 

Black, S. Knitwear in Fashion / S. Black. — New York: Thames and Hudson, 2002.

Bliss, S. The Significance of Clothes / S. Bliss /'/ American Journal of Psychology. — 1916.-10 (2). -P. 217-266.

 

Blumer, H. Fashion / H. Blumer // International Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences / D. Sills (ed). - New York: Macmillan, 1968. - 5. - P. 341-345.

 

Blumer, H. Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection / H. Blumer // Sociological Quarterly. - 1969. - 10. - P. 275-291.

 

Blumer, H. Fashion Movements / H. Blumer // Fashion Foundations — Early Writings on Fashion and Dress / K. Johnson, S. Torntore, J. Eicher. — Oxford: Berg, 2003 [1939].

 

Bradshear, K. Starbucks Aims to Alter China's Taste in Caffeine / K. Bradshear // New York Times. - 2005. - May 21. - Bl.

 

Brooks, G. The Centerfold Syndrome / G. Brooks // Men and Sex / R. Lavant, G. Brooks (eds). - New York: John Wiley & Sons, 1997. - P. 28-60.

Browne, D. Footwear Darwinism: Doc Martens Evolve / D. Browne // New York Times. — 2004. — November 7. — Archives.

 

Bruni, F. Critics Notebook: Life in the Fast Food Lane / F. Bruni // New York Times. — 2006. -May 24. -ST1.

 

Bruzzi, S. Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis / S. Bruzzi, P. Church Gibson. — London and New York: Routledge, 2000.

 

Bruzzi, S. Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies / S. Bruzzi. — New York and London: Routledge, 1997.

 

Butler, J. Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity / ]. Butler. — New York and London: Routledge, 1999.

 

Butler, J. Performative Acts and Gender Constitution / J. Butler // The Performance Studies Reader / H. Bial (ed.). — New York and London: Routledge, 2004a.

 

Butler, J. Undoing Gender / ]. Butler. — New York and London: Routledge, 2004b.

 

Calogero, R. M. A Test of Objectification Theory: The Effect of the Male Gaze on Appearance Concerns in College Women / R. M. Calogero // Psychology of Women Quarterly. - 2004. - 28. - P. 16-21.

 

Carter, M. Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes / M. Carter. — Oxford: Berg, 2003.

 

Changing Minds. — 2006. — (http://changingminds.org/explanations/behaviors/co-ping/displacement.htm).

Chang, J. Can't Stop Won't Stop: A History of'the Hip-Hop Generation /J. Chang. — New York: St Martin's Press, 2005.

 

Church Gibson, P. Film Costume / P. Church Gibson // The Oxford Guide to Film Studies I P. Church Gibson, J. Hill (eds). - Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1998.

 

Coelho, P. Fashion Cycles in Economics / P. Coelho, D. Klein, J. McClure // Econ Journal Watch. - 2004. - 1 (3). - P. 437-454.

 

Coelho, P. Rejoinder to Pesendorfer / P. Coelho, D. Klein, J. McClure // Econ Journal Watch. - 2005. - 2 (1). - P. 32-41.

 

Coelho, P. Toward an Economic Theory of Fashion / P. Coelho, J. McClure // Economic Inquiry. - 1993. - 31. - P. 595-608.

 

Cosbey, S. Diversity of Daytime Clothing Styles as a Reflection of Women's Social Role Ambivalence from 1873 through 1912 / S. Cosbey, M. L. Damhorst, J. Farrell-Beck // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 2003. - 21 (3). - P. 101-119.

 

Curran, L. An Analysis of Cycles in Skirt Lengths and Widths in the UK and German, 1954-1990 / L. Curran // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1999. -17 (2).-P. 65-72.

 

Curtis, A. The Century of the Self / A. Curtis. — London: British Broadcasting Corporation, 2002.

 

Damase, J. Sonia Delaunay: Fashion and Fabrics / j. Damase. — New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1991.

 

Davis, F. Clothing and Fashion as Communication / F. Davis // The Psychology of Fashion / M. Solomon (ed.). — Lexington, MA: Lexington Books, 1985.

 

Davis, F. Fashion, Culture, and Identity / F. Davis. — Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992.

 

DeLong, M. R. Common Goals, Diverse Perspectives: Learning Through Material Culture Analysis / M. R. DeLong, J. E. Hegland // International Textile and Apparel Proceedings. - 2002. - № 59.

 

DeLong, M. R. The Way We Look: A Framework for Visual Analysis of Dress / M. R. De-Long. — Ames: Iowa State University Press, 1987.

 

DeLong, M. R. The Way We Look: Dress and Aesthetics / M. R. DeLong. — 2nd ed. — New York: Fairchild, 1998.

 

DeLong, M. R. Theories of Fashion / M. R. DeLong // Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion / V. Steele (ed.). - Detroit: Thomson/Gale, 2005.

 

DeLoria, P. Playing Indian / P. DeLoria. — New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1998.

 

Dichter, E. Why We Dress the Way We Do / E. Dichter // The Psychology of Fashion / M. Solomon (ed.). — Lexington, MA: Lexington Books, 1985.

 

Douglas, M. Purity and Danger: An Analysis of Concepts of Pollution and Taboo / M. Douglas. — London, Boston and Henley: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1966.

 

Duggan, G. G. The Greatest Show on Earth: A Look at Contemporary Fashion Shows and Their Relationship to Performance Art / G. G. Duggan // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture. - 2001. - 5 (3). - P. 241-242.

 

Durkheim, E. The Elementary Forms of Religious Life: A Study in Religious Sociology; translated by J. W. Swain / E. Durkheim. — New York: Macmillan, 1915.

 

Dylan, B. Chronicles, Volume One / B. Dylan. - New York: Simon & Schuster, 2004.

 

Dylan, B. Maggie's Farm / B. Dylan. — Sony Music Entertainment, Inc.; New York: Columbia Records, 1965.

 

Eicher, J. B. Definitions and Classifications of Dress / J. B. Eicher, S. E. Roach Hig-gens // Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning / R. Barnes, J. B. Eicher (eds). — Oxford: Berg, 1992.

 

Ellis, B. J. Sex Differences in Sexual Fantasy: An Evolutionary Psychological Approach / B. J. Ellis, D. Symons //Journal of Sex Research. — 1990. — 27. — P. 527-555.

 

Erekosima, T. V. Kalahari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread Cloth / T. V. Erekosima, J. B. Eicher //African Arts. - 1981. - 14 (2). - P. 48-51.

 

Erekosima, T. V. The «Tartans» of Buguma Women: Cultural Authentication / T. V. Erekosima // The Proceedings of the Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing. - 1979. - P. 83-84.

 

Evans, C. The Enchanted Spectacle / C. Evans // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture. - 2001. - 5 (3). - P. 271 -310.

 

Evans, C. Women and Fashion: A New Look / C. Evans, M. Thornton. — London and New York: Quartet Books, 1989.

 

Faldini, F. L'awenturosa storia del cinema italiano raccontato dai suoi protagonista 1960-1969/F. Faldini, G. Fofi. - Milan: Feltinelli, 1981.

 

Field, G. A. The Status Float Phenomenon: The Upward Diffusion of Innovation / G. A. Field // Business Horizons. - 1970. - 13 (4). - P. 45-52.

 

Finch, M. Style in Art History: An Introduction to Theories of Style and Sequence / M. Finch. — Metuchen, NJ: The Scarecrow Press, 1974.

 

Flugel, J. C. The Psychology of Clothes/]. C. Fliigel. - London: Hogarth, 1930.

 

Fredrickson, B. L. Objectification Theory: Toward Understanding Women's Lived Experiences and Mental Health Risks / B. L. Fredrickson, T. Roberts // Psychology of Women Quarterly. - 1997. - 21. - P. 173-206.

 

Freidman, T. The World is Flat/T. Freidman. — New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2005.

 

Frith, S. Performing Rites: On the Value of Popular Music / S. Frith. — Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1996.

 

Fritjers, P. A Model of Fashions and Status / P. Fritjers // Economic Modeling. — 1998.-15. -P. 501-517.

 

Gallup, G. The Religious Life of Young Americans / G. Gallup, R. Bezilla. — Princeton: George H. Gallup International Institute, 1992.

 

Geertz, C. The Interpretation of Cultures / C. Geertz. — New York: Basic Book Publishers, 1973.

 

Gilligan, S. Gwyneth Paltrow / S. Gilligan // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis / S. Bruzzi, P. Church Gibson (eds). — London and New York: Routledge, 2002.

 

Gombrich, E. H. The Sense of Order: A Study in the Psychology of Decorative Art/ E. H. Gombrich. — Ithaca, New York: Cornell University Press, 1979.

 

Greenburg, J. Mideast Turmoil: The DEAD; 2 Girls Divided by War, Joined in Carnage / J. Greenburg // New York Times. — 2002. — April 5. — Archives.

 

Gregory, P. A Theory of Purposeful Obsolescence / P. Gregory // Southern Economic Journal. - 1947a. - 14 (1). - P. 24-45.

 

Gregory, P. An Economic Interpretation of Women's Fashions / P. Gregory // Southern Economic Journal. - 1947b. - 14 (2). - P. 148-162.

 

Grossman, J. In BUSINESS: A Simple Little Party, That's so Last Year / J. Grossman // New York Times Magazine. — 2006. — October 15. — P. 26.

 

Hall, G. S. Some Aspects of the Early Sense of Self / G. S. Hall // American Journal of Psychology. - 1898. - 9 (3). - P. 351-395.

 

Halpern, D. Bull Marketing / D. Halpern // New York Times Magazine. — 2006. — February 12.— Archives.

 

Halter, M. Shopping for Identity: The Marketing of Ethnicity / M. Halter. — New York: Schocken Books, 2002.

 

Hebdige, D. Subculture: The Meaning of Style / D. Hebdige. — London and New York: Routledge, 1979.

 

Hitt, J. The Newest Indians / J. Hitt // New York Times Magazine. - 2005. - August 21. — Archives.

 

Hodgman, J. Antony Finds His Voice: How an Androgynous Nina Simone-Loving Downtown Cult Artist Became This Year's Alt-Music Discovery / J. Hodgman // New York Times Magazine. - 2005. - September 4. - P. 24-29.

 

Hollander, A. Seeing Through Clothes / A. Hollander. — Berkeley: University of California Press, 1975.

 

Hollander, A. Sex and Suits / A. Hollander. — New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1995.

 

Holson, L. Gothic Lolita: Demure vs. Dominatrix / L. Holson // New York Times. — 2005.-March 13.-SI.

 

Horyn, C. Galliano Plays His Hand Smartly / C. Horyn // New York Times. — 2006. — May21.-STl,ll.

 

Jacobs, M. The Remix: Vintage Point / M. Jacobs // New York Times. — 2005. - February 20. — Archives.

 

Johnson, K. Fashion Foundations — Early Writings on Fashion and Dress / K. Johnson, S. Torntore, J. Eicher. - Oxford: Berg, 2003.

 

Johnston, J. E. Appearance Obsession: Women's Reactions to Men's Objectification of Their Bodies / J. E. Johnston // Men and Sex / R. F. Lavant, G. R. Brooks (eds). -NewYork: John Wiley & Sons, 1997. - P. 61-83.

 

Jones, M. Getting it On: The Clothing of Rock and Roll / M. Jones. — New York: Abbeville Press Publishers, 1987.

 

Joseph, J. Selected Poems /}. Joseph. — Tarset, England: Bloodaxe, 1992.

 

Kaiser, S. B. Construction of an SI theory of Fashion: Part I. Ambivalence and Change / S. B. Kaiser, R. H. Nagasawa, S. S. Hutton // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1995. - 13 (3). - P. 172-183.

 

Kaiser, S. B. The Social Psychology of Clothing: Symbolic Appearances in Context / S. B. Kaiser. — NewYork: Fairchild Publications, 1997.

 

Keenan, B. The Women We Wanted to Look Like / B. Keenan. — London: Macmillan, 1977.

 

Khan, N. Asian Women's Dress: From Burqah to Bloggs — Changing Clothes for Changing Times / N. Khan // Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader /}. Ash, E. Wilson (eds). — Berkeley and Los Angeles, California: University of California Press, 1992.-P. 61-74.

 

Khan, N. Catwalk Politics / N. Khan // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis / S. Bruzzi, P. Church Gibson (eds). — London and New York: Routledge, 2000.

Kidwell, C. B. Gender Symbols or Fashionable Details? / С. В. Kidwell // Men and Women: Dressing the Part / C. B. Kidwell, V. Steele (eds). - Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution, 1989. - P. 124-143.

 

Kidwell, C. B. Men and Women: Dressing the Part / C. B. Kidwell, V. Steele. - Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution, 1989.

 

Kim, H. J. Sino-japanism in Western Women's Fashionable Dress in Harper's Bazaar, 1890-1927/ H. J. Kim, M. R. DeLong // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. -1992. - (11)1. -P. 24-30.

 

King, C. W. Fashion Adoption: A Rebuttal to the «Trickle Down» Theory / C. W. King // Toward Scientific Marketing / S. A. Greyser (ed.). — Chicago: American Marketing Association, 1963. - P. 108-125.

 

Konig, R. A La Mode / R. Konig. — New York: Seabury Press, 1973.

Kroeber, A. On the Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in Fashion / A. Kroeber //American Anthropologist, New Series. — 1919. — 21(3).-P. 235-263.

 

Krugman, P. The Class Wars: The End of Middle-Class America (and the Triumph of the Plutocrats) / P. Krugman // New York Times Magazine. — 2002. — October 20. - P. 62-67, 76-77,141.

 

Kuczynski, A. Now You See It, Now You Don't / A. Kuczynski // New York Times. — 2004a. — September 4. — Archives.

 

Kuczynski, A. Peter Pan Collars in a Vintage Never-Never Land / A. Kuczynski // New York Times. - 2004b. - June 1. - E4.

 

La Ferla, R. Over the Shoulder Over the Top / R. La Ferla // New York Times. - 2005. -October 6.-El, 9.

 

Lakin, D. M. It Costs HOW Much? / D. M. Lakin // Watch Your Time: Special Watch Edition, New York Times (Special Advertising Supplement). — 2006. — October 15. - P. 30-32.

 

Лебон, Г. Психология толп / Г. Лебон, Г. Торд. — М.: Институт психологии РАН: КСП+, 1999. — (Библиотека социальной психологии).

 

Lehman, U. Tigersprung: Fashion and Modernity / U. Lehman. — Cambridge, Massachusetts and London: The MIT Press, 2000.

 

Leibenstein, H. Bandwagon, Snob, and Veblen Effects in the Theory of Consumers' Demand / H. Leibenstein // Quarterly Journal of Economics. — 1950. — 64 (2). — P. 183-207.

 

Leland, J. A Spirit of Belonging, Inside and Out / J. Leland // New York Times. — 2006a. - October 8. - Archives.

 

Leland, J. Rebels With a Cross / J. Leland // New York Times. — 2006b. -March2.-El-E2.

 

Levy, A. Female Chauvinist Pig: Women and the Rise ofRaunch Culture / A. Levy. — New York, London, Toronto, and Sydney: Freepress, 2005.

 

Litewka, J. The Socialized Penis / J. Litewka // Liberation. - 1974. - 18 (7). -P. 61-69.

 

Lowe, J. Cultural Pattern and Process: A Study of Stylistic Change in Women's Dress / j. Lowe, E. Lowe// American Anthropologist, New Series. — 1982. — 84 (3). — P. 521-544.

 

LoweJ. Quantitative Analysis of Women's Dress/J. Lowe, E. Lowe// The Psychology of Fashion / M. Solomon (ed.). — Lexington, MA: Lexington Books, 1985.

 

Lynch, A. Growing Old and Dressing (dis)Gracefully / A. Lynch, M. B. Stalp, E. Radina // Senses of Dress / D.C. Johnson, H. Foster (eds). - London: Berg, 2007.

 

Maslow, A. A Theory of Human Motivation / A. Maslow // Psychological Review. — 1943.-50.-P. 370-396.

 

McCracken, G. Culture and Consumption: New Approaches to the Symbolic Character of Consumer Goods and Activities / G. McCracken. — Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1988.

 

McCracken, G. The Trickle Down Theory Rehabilitated / G. McCracken // The Psychology of Fashion / M. Solomon (ed.). — Lexington, MA: Lexington Books, 1985.

 

McLaughlin, N. Rock, Fashion and Performativity / N. McLaughlin // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis / S. Bruzzi, P. Church Gibson (eds). — London and New York: Routledge, 2004.

 

McMurry, M. P. Jackie: Gateway to Style, Taste and Social Change // International Textile and Apparel Proceedings / M. P. McMurry, L. Wilson. — 2003. — № 60.

 

Miller, J. In PERSON: A Bag Lady with Panache /J. Miller //New York Times. - 2005. -February 6. — Archives.

 

Mitchell, J. The Circle Game/]. Mitchell. - Siquomb Publishing Co. BMI, 1966

 

Miller, L. The Many Figures of Eve: Styles of Womanhood Embodied in a Late-Nineteenth-Century Corset / L. Miller //American Artifacts: Essays in Material Culture /}. D. Prown, K. Haltman (eds). — East Lansing, Michigan: Michigan University Press, 2000.

 

Miller, C. M. Toward Formalizing Fashion Theory / C. M. Miller, S. H. Mclntyre, К. М. Man-trala //Journal of Marketing Research. — \ 993. — May 30. - P. 142-157.

 

Munro, T. Form and Style in the Visual Arts: An Introduction to Aesthetic Morphology I T. Munro. — Cleveland: The Press of Case Western Reserve University, 1970.

 

Navarro, M. The Most Private of Makeovers / M. Navarro // New York Times. — 2004.-November28.-SI.

 

Nystrom, P. Economics of Fashion / P. Nystrom. — New York: Ronald Press Company, 1928.

 

Oakes, J. A Comparison of Historical and Contemporary Skin Clothing Used in North Greenland: An Ethnohistorical Approach / j. Oakes, R. Riewe // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1992. - (10) 3. - P. 76-85.

 

Pannabecker, R. K. Ribbonwork of the Great Lakes Indians: The material of acculturation (Doctoral dissertation, Ohio State University, 1986) / R. K. Pannabecker // Dissertations Abstracts International. - 1986. - 47. - P. 961A-962A.

 

Pannabecker, R. K. «Tastily Bound with Ribands»: Ribbon-bordered Dress of the Great Lakes Indians, 1735-1839 / R. K. Pannabecker // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1996. - (14) 4. - P. 267-275.

 

Pannabecker, R. K. The Cultural Authentication of Ribbon: Use and Test of a Concept / R. K. Pannabecker // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. — 1988. — (7)1.-P. 55-56.

Pareles, J. Korean Superstar Who Smiles and Says, «I'm Lonely» // New York Times. —2006. — February 4. — Archives.

 

Payne, B. The History of Costume / B. Payne, G. Winakor, j. Farrell-Beck. — New York: HarperCollins Publishers, 1992.

 

Pesendorfer, W. Design Innovation and Fashion Cycles / W. Pesendorfer //American Economic Review. - 1995. - 85 (4). - P. 771-792.

 

Pesendorfer, W. Response to «Fashion Cycles in Economics» / W. Pesendorfer // Econ Journal Watch. - 2004. - 1 (3). - P. 455-464.

 

Pesendorfer, W. Second Reply to Coelho, Klein, and McClure / W. Pesendorfer // Econ Journal Watch. - 2005. - 2 (1). - P. 42-46.

 

Poiret, P. King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret; translated by S. H. Gras-set / P. Poiret. - Philadelphia and London: J. B. Lippincott Co, 1931.

 

Polhemus, T. Fashion and Anti-Fashion: Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment / T. Polhemus. — London: Thames and Hudson, 1978.

 

Prown, J. D. American Artifacts: Essays in Material Culture / J. D. Prown, K. Halt-man. — East Lansing, Michigan: Michigan University Press, 2000.

 

Prown, J. D. Mind in Matter: An Introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method / J. D. Prown// WinterthurPortfolio. - 1982. - 17. - P. 1-19.

 

Regnerus, M. Religion in the Lives of American Adolescents: A Review of Literature. National Study of Youth and Religion, Report № 3 / M. Regnerus, C. Smith, M. Fritsch. - 2003.

 

Reich, J. Undressing the Latin Lover: Marcello Mastroianni, Fashion and «La dolce vita» / J. Reich // Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis / S. Bru-zzi, P. Church Gibson (eds). - London and New York: Routledge, 2000.

 

Reisman, D. The Lonely Crowd / D. Reisman. — New Haven: Yale University Press, 1965.

 

Reynolds, F. Why the Midi Failed //Journal of Advertising Research / F. Reynolds, W. Darden. - 1972. - 12. - P. 39-44.

 

Rich, F. The Rove Da Vinci Code / F. Rich // New York Times. — 2006. — May 21. — Archives.

Richardson, J. Three Centuries of Women's Dress Fashions: A Quantitative Analysis / J. Richardson, A. Kroeber // Fashion Marketing / G. Willis, D. Midgley (eds). — London: Allen and Unwin, 1973 [1940]. - P. 47-105.

 

Robertson, C. BOLDFACE / C. Robertson // New York Times. — 2005. — April 5. — Archives.

 

Robinson, D. Fashions in Shaving and Trimming of the Beard: The Men of the Illustrated London News / D. Robinson // American Journal of Sociology. — 1976. — 81 (5).-P. 1133-1139.

 

Robinson, D. Fashion Theory and Product Design / D. Robinson // Harvard Business Review. - 1958. - 36 (6). - P. 126-138.

 

Robinson, D. Style Changes: Cyclical, Inexorable, and Foreseeable / D. Robinson // Harvard Business Review. - 1975. - 53. - P. 121-131.

 

Robinson, D. The Economics of Fashion Demand / D. Robinson // Quarterly Journal of Economics. - 1961. - 75 (3). - P. 376-398.

 

Rogers, E. Diffusion of Innovations / E. Rogers. — New York: The Free Press, 2003.

 

Rubin, R. Not Far From Forsaken / R. Rubin // New York Times Magazine. — 2006. — April 9. — Archives.

 

Russell, D. Costume History and Style / D. Russell. — Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice Hall, 1983.

 

Santelli, R. Bob Dylan Scrapbook, 1956-1966 / R. Santelli, B. Dylan. - New York: Simon & Schuster, 2005.

 

Schechner, R. Between Theatre and Anthropology / R. Schechner. — Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1985.

 

Schechner, R. Essays on Performance Theory, 1970-1976 / R. Schechner. — New York: Drama Books Specialists, 1977.

 

Schwichtenberg, C. The Madonna Connection / C. Schwichtenberg. — Boulder, San Francisco and Oxford: Westview Press, 1993.

 

Sciolino, D. Ban Religious Attire in School, French Panel Says' / D. Sciolino // New York Times. - 2003. - December 12. - Archives.

 

Simmel, G. Fashion / G. Simmel // International Quarterly. P. 130-155.

 

Slotkin, R. Gunfighter Nation: The Myth of the Frontier in Twentieth Century America / R. Slotkin. — Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1992.

 

Solomon, M. Consumer Preferences for Apparel and Textile Products as a Function of Lifestyle Imagery / M. Solomon, B. Englis // National Textile Center Research Briefs. - 2000.

 

Solomon, M. The Psychology of Fashion / M. Solomon. — Lexington, MA: Lexington Books, 1985.

 

Spencer, H. The Principles of Sociology / H. Spencer. — New York and London: Appleton, 1924.

 

Sproles, G. Analyzing Fashion Life Cycles — Principles and Perspective / G. Sproles // journal of Marketing. - 1981. - 45. - P. 116-124.

 

Sproles, G. Changing Appearances: Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society / G. Sproles, L. Burns. — New York: Fairchild Publications, 1994.

 

St. John, W. Dude, Here's My Book / W. St. John // New York Times. - 2006. -April 16. — Archives.

 

St. John, W. What Men Want: Neanderthal TV / W. St. John // New York Times. -2005. — December 11. — Archives.

 

Steele, V. Dressing for Work/V. Stee\e//Men and Women: Dressing thePart/C. B. Kidwell, V. Steele. - Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution, 1989. - P. 64-91.

 

Steele, V. Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age / V. Steele. — New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1985.

 

Steele, V. Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power / V. Steele. — New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1996.

 

Steele, V. Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now / V. Steele. — New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1997.

 

Steele, V. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History / V. Steele. — New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1988.

 

Stone, G. P. Appearance and the Self / G. P. Stone // Dress, Adornment and the Social Order I M. E. Roach, J. B. Eicher (eds). — New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965.-P. 216-245.

 

Strandberg, K. W. Lights, Camera... Watches? / K. W. Strandberg // Watch Your Time: Special Watch Edition, New York Times (Special Advertising Supplement). — 2006a. - October 15. - P. 52-54.

 

Strandberg, K. W. Like a Phoenix: The Stunning Rebirth of the Mechanical Watch / K. W. Strandberg // Watch Your Time: Special Watch Edition, New York Times (Special Advertising Supplement). - 2006b. - October 15. - P. 21-28.

 

Strother, Z. S. Invention and Reinvention in the Traditional Arts / Z. S. Strother // African Arts. — 1995. — Spring. — P. 24-33.

 

Suarez, J. A. Bike Boys, Drag Queens, and Superstars: Avant-Garde, Mass Culture, and Gay Identities in the 1960s Underground Cinema / J. A. Suarez. — Bloomington and Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 1996.

 

Sullivan, J. Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon /}. Sullivan. — New York: Gotham Books, 2006.

 

Taylor, L. The Study of Dress History / L. Taylor. — Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press, 2002.

 

Thurman, J. Broad Stripe, Bright Stars: The Spring-Summer Men's Fashion Shows in Milan and Paris / J. Thurman // The New Yorker. - 2003. - July 28.

 

Trebay, G. A Judy is Born / G. Trebay // New York Times. - 2006a. - June 4. - El.

 

Trebay, G. A Tremor of Rebellion / G. Trebay // New York Times. - 2006b. - February 9. - El, E7.

 

Trebay, G. Back to the Beach / G. Trebay // New York Times. - 2006c. - June 1. -E1,E5.

 

Trebay, G. Being Bad: The Career Move / G. Trebay // New York Times. - 2006d. -April 20.- El,E9.

 

Trebay, G. Radical Chic: Two Designers Use a Paris Show to Demonstrate that Fashion and Politics Can Mix / G. Trebay // New York Times. - 2006e. - October 6. -E1..E8.

 

Troy, N. Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion / N. Troy. — Cambridge and London: The MIT Press, 2003.

 

Tulloch, C. Rebel Without a Pause: Black Street Style & Black Designers / C. Tulloch // Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader /}. Ash, E. Wilson (eds). — Berkeley: University of California Press, 1992.

 

Turner, V. The Anthropology of Performance / V. Turner. — New York: PAJ Publications, 1988.

 

Turner, T. S. The Social Skin / T. S. Turner // Not Work Alone: A Cross-Cultural View of Activities Superfluous to Survival /}. Cherfas, R. Lewin (eds). — Beverly Hills: Sage Publications, 1980. - P. 112-140.

 

Uzanne, L. Fashion in Paris: The Various Phases of Feminine Taste and Aesthetics from 1797 to 1897 / L. Uzanne. - London: William Heinemann, 1898.

 

VALS™. - 2006. - (http://www.sric-bi.com/VALS/types.shtml; accessed May 24, 2006).

 

Veblen, T. The Economic Theory of Women's Dress / T. Veblen // Popular Science Monthly. - 1894. - 46. - P. 198-205.

 

Veblen, T. The Theory of the Leisure Class / T. Veblen. — New York: The Modern Library, 1899.

 

Vinken, B. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System / B. Vinken. — Oxford and New York: Berg, 2005.

 

Von Boehn, M. Modes and Manners: Volume III / M. von Boehn; translated by J.Joshua. — Philadelphia:J. B. Lippincott Company, 1933.

 

Von Drehle, D. Triangle: The Fire that Changed America / D. von Drehle. — New York: Grove Press, 2003.

 

Wadler, J. Boldface Names / J. Wadler // New York Times. - 2004. - August 12. -Archives.

 

Walker, R. Faux Logo: A Brand That Appeals to the Toughest Consumers — The Ones Who are Sick of Brands / R. Walker // New York Times Magazine. — 2006a. — May 14.-P. 24.

 

Walker, R. Girls Just Want to Belong / R. Walker // New York Times Magazine. — 2005a. — August 21.

 

Walker, R. Middle-age, Bring it On / R. Walker // New York Times Magazine. — 2005b. - January 30.

 

Walker, R. The Princess Buy / R. Walker // New York Times Magazine. — 2006b. — October 15. -P. 26.

 

Weeden, P. Study Patterned on Kroeber's Investigation of Style / P. Weeden // Dress. — 1977.-3.-P. 9-19.

 

Weil, St E. Western Shirts: A Classic American Fashion / St E. Weil, G. D. DeWeese. -Salt Lake City, Utah: Gibbs Smith, Publisher, 2004.

 

Welters, L. Greek chemises in American collections. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota / L. Welters. — 1981.

 

Welters, L. Greek Folk Dress: Application of the Ethnohistorical Method / L. Welters // Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. - 1992. - (10) 3. - P. 29-35.

 

Welters, L. Material Culture: Textiles in Women's Lives / L. Welters // International Textile and Apparel Proceedings. - 2002. - № 59.

 

Welters, L. The Peloponnesian «Zonari»: A Twentieth-century String Skirt / L. Welters // Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs About Protection and Fertility / I. Welters (ed.). - Oxford and New York: Berg, 1999. - P. 53-70.

 

White, S. Stylin: African American Expressive Culture from its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit/S. White, G. White. - Ithaca and London: Cornell University Press, 1998.

 

Williams, A. Here I Am Taking My Own Picture / A. Williams // New York Times. 2006. - February 19. - ST1, ST12.

 

Williams, W. L. The Spirit and the Flesh: Sexual Diversity in American Indian Culture / W. L. Williams. — Boston: Beacon Press, 1986.

 

Wilson, E. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity / E. Wilson. — New Brunswick, New Jersey: Rutgers University Press, 2003 [1985].

 

Wilson, L. American Cowboy Dress: Function to Fashion / L. Wilson // Dress. — 2001.-28.-P. 40-52.

 

Wilson, E. Fashion Refigured / E. Wilson // New York Times. - 2005a. -May 12.-SI.

 

Wilson, E. The Mohawk Becomes, Well, Cute / E. Wilson // New York Times. - 2005b. -September 1. — Archives.

 

Wolf, J. And You Thought Abercrombie and Fitch Were Pushing It / J. Wolf / New York Times Magazine. — 2006. — April 23. — Archives.

 

 

Young, А. В. Recurring Cycles in Fashion, 1760-1937 / A. B. Young. — New York: Cooper Square Publishers, 1966.

 

Young, K. Social Psychology / K. Young. — 3rd ed. — New York: Appieton-Century-Crofts, 1956.

 

Zeitz,J. Flapper: A Madcap Story of Sex, Style, Celebrity, and the Women Who Who Made America Modern /J. Zeitz. — New York: Crown Publishers, 2006.

 

 


Поделиться с друзьями:

Индивидуальные и групповые автопоилки: для животных. Схемы и конструкции...

Папиллярные узоры пальцев рук - маркер спортивных способностей: дерматоглифические признаки формируются на 3-5 месяце беременности, не изменяются в течение жизни...

Типы оградительных сооружений в морском порту: По расположению оградительных сооружений в плане различают волноломы, обе оконечности...

Биохимия спиртового брожения: Основу технологии получения пива составляет спиртовое брожение, - при котором сахар превращается...



© cyberpedia.su 2017-2024 - Не является автором материалов. Исключительное право сохранено за автором текста.
Если вы не хотите, чтобы данный материал был у нас на сайте, перейдите по ссылке: Нарушение авторских прав. Мы поможем в написании вашей работы!

0.265 с.